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Parasitic worms
and their treatment in ducks
Stock should be
wormed routinely twice a year, and on any other occasion which
necessitates it e.g. a bird seems ill, or is coughing. Call ducks do seem
to suffer less from worms than geese, but any bird which is
under-weight should be treated. Signs of worm infestation include
loss of weight and blood staining around the vent. If a bird is
wormed and placed on newspaper (in a show pen) for the night, then
round worms may be seen in the droppings. If a sample of droppings
is collected, the species of worm eggs present can be identified,
under the microscope, by the vet. (See the article on worms in
the November edition of Smallholder magazine, due out soon)
Worms which affect waterfowl come in
a variety of forms.
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Gizzard
worm (Amidostomum)—more likely to be lethal in geese.
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Gapeworms (Syngamus;
Cyathostoma in geese) — make birds cough and, in extreme cases,
will asphyxiate them.
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Round worms—live in the gut (Ascarides). Occasionally seen in droppings
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Caecal worm (Heterakis) which inhabit the caecae (two
blind-ending extensions from the gut).
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Also tapeworm and fluke.
Most of these worms use earthworms or insects as a host, and wild birds are carriers. So, however clean the environment,
there is always is always a
low parasite presence. The higher the density of stocking in an establishment, and the greater the length of time over which the land has been used, the greater the importance of regular
worming.
Vermifuges
The preferred wormer for birds is Flubenvet. This
vermifuge can be
obtained from your vet and the dosage for ducks should be checked
with a vet because ducks are not mentioned on the label. The white
powder comes in a
240g tub and usually has a very long use-by date. The product is
licensed for birds, and kills all the parasites listed above, at
the correct dosage. The dosage for geese and chickens is 120g on 100 kg of
food (half the dosage for pheasant). This works out at 1.2g per
kilo—easier to measure at one level teaspoonful (3.6g) per 3 kg.
Check the weight of a teaspoonful on digital kitchen scales. The
white powder adheres well to the pellets—better than to wheat—so
just use pellets over the worming period. Don’t mix it with your
hand because the powder sticks to your skin. Use a table spoon.
The disadvantage of
Flubenvet is that you have to feed it for a week, in the
food, for it to be effective. So birds who are really ill, and not
eating, cannot be dosed in this way. Another product and delivery as
a drench (liquid down the throat) would be more suitable. Note that withdrawal times for
Flubenvet
are stated on the product label.
Ivermectin (pour-on)
for controlling internal and external parasites is now available in
10 ml dropper bottles (800 μg/ml [0.8%] strength) from a vet. The
recommended dosage is one drop on the skin once a week for 3 weeks.
This dosage is for a pigeon and so is a suitable amount for a Call.
It is marketed by VETREPHARM LTD, Unit 15, Sandleheath
Industrial Estate, Fordingbridge Hants SP6 1PA
TEL 01425 656081. It is only
obtainable through a vet. On the other hand, Noromectin (0.5%
Ivermectin on the label) can be bought at agricultural stores. When
using Ivermectin, observe the stated withdrawal time.
The number of worm species that Ivermectin kills is also more
limited than flubenvet (tapeworm & fluke are excluded: V
Roberts: Diseases of Free Range Poultry, Whittet Books Ltd
ISBN 873580 53 3, page 55) but
it is doubly useful in that it also systemically kills external
parasites, such as northern mite, if used three times, spaced 7-8
days apart.
Note that it is recommended that birds should be wormed twice a
year, outside the breeding season. Also, avoid the situation where birds
get full of worms, and impacted; or, when the worms are killed, the
toxins they release kill the bird.
More info at: http://www.smallholder.co.uk/mostpopular.var.976875.mostviewed.worms_in_waterfowl_and_poultry.php
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